Figure 7-25. Seam fold. Figure 7-29. Correct oversew.
Figure 7-26. Seam corner.
Figure 7-30. Patch inspection.
Figure 7-31. If you pull up sharply on the top thread, the bottom
thread will form a loop allowing you to cut both at once and remove
the bottom thread through the fabric.
Figure 7-27. Correct fold corner seam.
Figure 7-28. Correct stitch gauge.
21. Always make a 4 to 6 inch oversew or turn the next
corner on a short legged patch. [Figure 7-29]
22. Inspect the work thoroughly. Hold over available light
source. [Figure 7-30]
NOTE: If you pull up sharply on the top thread, the bottom
thread forms a loop allowing you to cut both at once and
remove the bottom thread through the fabric. [Figure 7-31]
NOTE: Wear the damaged parachute as if it were a mitten
while cutting and you will not cut the patch that was just
carefully placed. [Figure 7-32]
Figure 7-32. Wear the damaged parachute as if it were a mitten while
cutting and you will not cut the patch that was just carefully placed.
Figure 7-33. Always grab the work by the threads and remove directly
to the rear when removing it from the machine to avoid bunching.
NOTE: Always grab the work by the threads and remove
directly to the rear when removing it from the machine to
avoid bunching. [Figure 7-33]
Round Canopy—Panel Replacement
• Applicable products: All round canopies—main
and reserve
• Description: Complete replacement of a panel section
of a gore of a round canopy
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; fabric—type and
color to match
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—light duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper, marking pencil,
6-inch ruler, large pin board, and straight pins
Procedure
This process of replacing the panel is in reality a panel patch
and is similar to that used in making a basic canopy patch.
Because of the time and difficulty involved in removing and
replacing the actual panel, that technique is best left to the
canopy manufacturer. This technique is the more commonly
accepted practice for major panel repair. The major issue to be
dealt with in this technique is that of the amount of shrinkage
that occurs during the repair. The larger the area of the
panel, the more shrinkage occurs. The following procedure
describes a panel replacement on a block constructed, non-
continuous line canopy. A bias constructed canopy is similar
but more “fullness” needs to be allowed for in the cutting of
the panel and sewing.
1. Lay the canopy inside out on the pin board. Pin the
canopy by placing tension on the seams and making
sure they are straight.
2. Cut a piece of fabric larger than the damaged panel by
approximately 6 inches around all sides. Make sure
that the weave of the panel matches that of the canopy.
For a block constructed canopy, the bolt of fabric runs
parallel down the radial seams of the canopy. For a
bias constructed canopy, the bolt runs parallel to the
diagonal seams.
3. Trim one side of the panel to align the ripstop weave
with the cross seam.
4. Fold over the edge of the panel fabric approximately
¾ inch and pin in place aligning the edge with the
outside of the cross seam. [Figure A]
5. Smooth out the panel fabric over the damaged area
and align the opposite edge over the opposite cross
seam. Cut the panel fabric approximately 1 inch wider
than the panel. Fold the edge under and pin in place.
You now have the top and bottom cross seams of the
panel in place. [Figure B]
6. Stitch the outside row of stitching starting and finishing
approximately 1 inch short of the radial seams.
7. Take the panel fabric along the radial seam and trim
approximately ¾ inch from the outside edge of the
radial seam. Fold under and pin in place. Repeat for
the opposite radial seam. [Figure C]
8. Overstitch the end of the cross seam that was left open
a minimum of 2 inches and proceed to and down the
radial seam and then overstitch the open end of the
cross seam. Repeat for the opposite side. It is advisable
to hold a bit of tension on the seams as you sew to
minimize the shrinkage.
9. Turn the canopy right side out. Trim out the damaged
panel along the seams, leaving approximately 5⁄8 inch.
[Figure D] Also trim the excess edge of the panel
as needed.
10. Fold the edge of the canopy under the panel to create
the seam and pin in place.
11. Sew the inside of the panel seam in place. Again, hold
tension on the fabric as you sew to minimize shrinkage.
12. Remove the canopy from the machine being careful
not to pull on the threads. Trim the threads. Inspect
the panel.
Inspection
• Check the weave alignment of the fabric panel to
the canopy.
• Check for proper thread tension all around.
• Seams should be straight and parallel.
• The resulting size of the panel should match
approximately that of adjacent panels allowing for
shrinkage.
Square Canopy—Partial Panel Replacement
• Applicable products: Most main and reserve canopies
• Description: Replacement of a partial panel(s) in a
canopy where the extent of the damage necessitates
more than a single large or multiple small patches.
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread, fabric—type and color to match
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—light duty 7–11 SPI,
308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI (optional), 1 inch
× 42 stitch bar tack (optional)
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper, marking pencil,
36-inch ruler, pin board or large cardboard box folded
flat, straight pins, scotch tape or equivalent
Procedure
The method of repair presented in this section is an acceptable
data method. It is advised if possible to utilize the R.D.
Raghanti process as viewed in the Basic Patch Repair section
to allow for higher quality of repair.
NOTE: The repair described in the following procedure is
a major tear across the bottom surface of the canopy and
includes damage to a non-loadbearing rib.
Disassembly
1. Determine the extent of the damage. Mark out the
damaged area across the panel, following the weave
of the fabric. Unpick the loaded seams that hold
the damaged fabric for at least 8–10 inches past the
damage area mark. It is always easier to unpick more
of the seam to allow better access to the damaged area.
Restitching the seam is one of the easiest operations.
Fighting the canopy is not.
2. Unpick the non-loaded seam the same distance as the
loaded seams.
3. Lay the canopy on the floor, take the pin board or
cardboard box and position it under the damaged area.
Take the scotch tape and tape the raw edges of the tear
together to stabilize the panel. [Figure A]
4. Pin the damaged panel to the pin board. Do not
overstretch the fabric, but make sure to take all the
slack out so the panel is square. In this instance, the
canopy had spanwise reinforcing tapes, which were
used to stabilize the canopy; however, one of them
was damaged and requires replacement.[Figure B]
5. Mark a line on the fabric at least 2 inches from the
damage area on both sides of the damaged panel.
[Figure C]
Reassembly
1. Cut a piece of fabric approximately 6 inches wider
and longer than the damaged panel area. Make sure
that one of the edges is straight and even with the
weave of the fabric. Trim one of the adjacent sides at
90 degrees to the straight edge.
2. Mark a line parallel to the straight edge at 3⁄4 inch from
the edge. Center the new panel on the damaged one.
Fold the fabric on this line and pin in place along the
damage line. [Figure D] Smooth the new panel fabric
over the damaged panel to the opposite side. Trim the
new panel 3⁄4 inch longer than the damage line. Fold
the fabric at the line and pin in place. [Figure E]
3. Check the tension of the two panels. They should
be equal.
4. Take a straightedge and mark the location of the
spanwise reinforcing tape. [Figure F]
5. Sew the panel along the outer edge at .12 inch from
the folded edge.
6. Turn the panel inside out. Trim the damaged panel at
.62 inch from the edge of the panel edge. [Figure G]
7. Fold the fabric under to create a French fell seam. Sew
a stitch row .12 inch from the folded edge.
8. Sew a piece of reinforcing tape on the bottom of the
replacement panel along the line for the spanwise
reinforcing tape. [Figure H]
9. Repair the non-loadbearing rib with a three-sided
patch. [Figure I]
10. Draw a line along the edge of the partial panel on each
side from the point where the old panel meets the new
one. Trim the fabric along this line. [Figure J]
11. Check the tension of the new partial panel piece
against the edges of the other panels that formed the
original seam. They should all be equal. [Figure K]
12. Refold the original seam with the three panel edges and
stitch as per the original seam. [Figure L] Overstitch
a minimum of 2 inches on each end.
13. If a line attachment has been removed for the repair,
the tab must be replaced. Make sure that the line/tab
does not have a twist in it. Locate it at the correct
location and reattach as per original.
Inspection
• Check the fabric tension of the replaced panel. It
should be equal to that in the remainder of the cell.
• Spanwise reinforcing tape should be straight and sewn.
• Seams should be folded correctly and thread tension
even along both rows of stitching.
• Line should be attached correctly and have no twists.
Square Canopy—Rib Repair
• Applicable products: square canopies; main and
reserve
• Description: Rib repair on a square canopy
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute
Rigger —mains and reserves; FAA Senior Parachute
Rigger—mains
• Materials: E thread; fabric—type and color to match,
reinforcing tape—type and color as per original
• Machines: 301 dtraight dtitch—medium duty 7–11
SPI, 1 inch × 42 stitch bar tack, double needle with
puller attachment (optional) and SPI to match original
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper, marking pencil,
ruler, pin board, straight pins, and patching square
Procedure
Repairing a rib of a square canopy is similar to doing a
partial panel repair. The biggest difference comes when the
rib is either:
1. A “loaded” rib or one with support tapes for the line
attachment points, or
2. A crossport is damaged and needs to be repaired
and recut. In this case, the crossport area needs
replacement. [Figure A]
Disassembly
1. Determine the extent of the damaged area and unpick
the top and bottom seams to access the rib. [Figure B]
In most cases, restitching the rib to the top and bottom
panels is fairly straightforward. Because of this,
opening up the seam for a good distance (18 inches
plus either side of the proposed patch) allows easier
access and sewing.
2. Pin the damaged rib to the pin board to stabilize the
material for marking. Mark out the damaged portion
of the panel, following the weave of the fabric.
Change 1 (December 2015)
[Figure C] This will be the patch fold lines and the
limits of the partial rib panel. NOTE: The tears of
the crossports have been taped together and that the
crossport has been pinned down to stabilize the fabric
during the marking process.
3. Using the patching square, mark a parallel line .75
inch inside the patch fold lines and then another one
.62 inch inside the second line. [Figure D] The inner
lines are the trim lines for the rib patch.
Reassembly
1. Cut a piece of fabric approximately 4 inches wider
and longer than the damaged panel area. Make sure
that one of the width edges is straight and even with
the weave of the fabric.
2. Fold the straight edge .75 inch from the edge and pin
in place across the damage line. Make sure the fabric
is centered on the existing panel.
3. Remove the pins from the crossport area and smooth
the new panel fabric over the damaged panel.
4. Fold the new fabric outwards at the patch fold mark
and pin in place. Use the patching square to mark a
line at .75 inch in from the fold line. [Figure E]
5. Trim the repair panel at the inner line, fold under and
pin in place. [Figure F]
6. Check the tension of the two panels. They should
be equal. Mark the top and bottom edges and the
crossport location. [Figure G and Figure H]
7. Remove the rib from the pin board. Sew the two
outboard seams approximately .06 inch from the edge
with the single needle. [Figure I]
8. Trim the original damaged panel to the trim lines.
[Figure J] Fold the fabric under to create a French
fell seam. Repeat with the opposite seam. [Figure K]
9. Sew the inside row to complete the seam. [Figure L]
10. Cut the new crossport to match the original location
and shape. [Figure M]
11. Trim the top and bottom edges as marked. [Figure N]
12. Pin the top seam back onto the top panel. Sew in place
with either the single needle or if available, with the
double needle machine and puller. [Figure O] Repeat
with the bottom seam.
13. Inspect finished work. [Figure P]
Inspection
• Seam alignment should be straight.
• Check the tension of the replaced rib material.
• Make sure the seams are restitched correctly.
• Verify that the crossport is cut correctly.
• The line attachment tape must be replaced correctly
with no twists in the suspension line.
Square Canopy—Pilot Chute Attachment Point
Repair
• Applicable Products: Square main canopies
• Description: Repair of the main canopy pilot chute
attachment point.
• Authorized Repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread; fabric—type and color to match,
reinforcing tape—type and color to match, reinforcing
fabric—type and color to match
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11
SPI, 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI, 1 inch ×
42 stitch bar tack
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper, marking pencil,
and 12–inch ruler
Procedure
This repair is quite common. If the canopy is inspected
regularly, the beginnings of the damage will be noticed and
a simple re-stitching will solve the problem. However, many
times it is not and the resultant damage is quite extensive
requiring repair of the rib, as well as the top panel.
Disassembly
1. Inspect the area to determine the extent of the damage.
[Figure A] If the stitching that holds the attachment
point to the canopy is simply coming loose, re-stitch
as per the original.
2. If the canopy fabric is damaged, then turn the canopy
inside out. The center rib should have a reinforced
area that brackets the attachment point. [Figure B]
3. Detach the top of the rib from the top surface of the cell
where the attachment point is located. [Figure C] If
the rib is damaged, then a rib repair is needed.
4. Usually the top skin of the cell needs to be repaired.
Again, depending on the extent of the damage,
either perform a patch on the panel or a partial
panel replacement.
Reassembly
1. After the top skin is repaired, a new reinforcement
patch needs to be installed on the center of the cell so
that it is centered over the attachment point.
2. Take the pre-cut reinforcement panel and sew it in
place with two rows of the single-needle machine.
The corners should be folded in at a 45 degree angle to
eliminate any point loading on the corners. [Figure D]
3. Reattach the rib to the top surface of the canopy as
per the original configuration.
4. Install a new pilot chute attachment tape and ring at
the appropriate location. [Figure E]
Inspection
• Check that rib and panel repairs have been made
as needed.
• Verify the new top reinforcing panel is in place with
two rows of single-needle stitching.
• Check the new attachment tape and ring for the
appropriate stitch pattern.
Round Canopy—Non-continuous Line
Replacement
• Applicable products: Round canopies—main and
reserve.
• Description: Replacement of a suspension line on a
round canopy with non-continuous line configuration.
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread; Suspension line—type and color
to match
• Machines: 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI, 1
inch × 42 stitch bar tack (optional)
• Equipment: Packing table, scissors, seam ripper or
scalpel, marking pencil, 6-inch ruler, 60-pound fish
scale or equivalent, and finger-trapping needle
Procedure
The most common need for this type of repair today is as a
result of the suspension line of the reserve being damaged
during packing or occasionally during use after landing.
The newer, lightweight braided lines are very susceptible to
being snagged on the hook portion of Velcro ® closures on
the container if care is not taken by the rigger.
Disassembly
1. Lay the canopy out on the packing table. Straighten the
canopy ensuring the apex is straight and even tension
on the lines.
2. Remove the damaged line from the canopy.
Reassembly
1. Cut a new line from the same material as the original
approximately 36 inches longer than the damaged line.
2. Pre-stretch the line by applying approximately
10 percent of its rated strength for a minimum of
15 minutes.
3. Attach the line to the connector link in the same manner
as the original. Most of the newer canopies use braided
line and a finger-trap attachment technique. [Figure A]
4. Zigzag or bar tack the line, whichever is appropriate.
5. Run the free end of the line to the canopy. If the canopy
utilizes a V-tab configuration, route the line through
the V-tab. [Figure B]
6. Pull the V-tab down until it is even with the rest of the
skirt. Mark the line at the edge of the skirt and pin in
place. [Figure C]
7. Sew the line to the canopy with the zigzag machine
duplicating the original manufacture. [Figure D] Trim
the excess line from the canopy.
8. Return the canopy to the packing table, straighten,
and apply tension. Check the trim of the replaced line
against the others.
Inspection
• Verify the line length is the same as the original with
the same tension.
• The connector link and canopy ends must be
sewn correctly.
Square Canopy—Main Line Replacement
• Applicable products: Square main canopies.
• Description: Replacement of main suspension lines
of square canopies.
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread
• Machines: 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI, 1
inch × 42 stitch bar tack (optional)
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, finger-trapping needle, and
60-pound fish scale or equivalent
Procedure
Many of the modern canopies are using Spectra ® or other
aramid fibers in place of nylon or Dacron lines. These materials
are stronger, lighter, and less bulky. An example is the
825-pound Spectra® line common on many main canopies. The
strength is higher but the bulk is smaller than the 525-pound
Dacron used in the past. Accordingly, the techniques needed
to work this material are more refined and precise.
Disassembly
1. Lay the canopy out on one side and straighten the lines.
2. Remove the damaged line. If the cascade is undamaged,
remove the cascade line from the junction of the main
line. If the cascade is damaged, remove it as well.
Reassembly
1. Cut a new main line approximately 24 inches longer
than the old one.
2. Finger-trap a loop at the connector link end. [Figure A]
Make sure that the size of the loop duplicates the
original or adjacent lines. If the loop is made too small,
there may be difficulty in changing connector links
or risers as needed. Sew the fingertrap with either a
zigzag or bar tack.
3. Pre-tension the line. With Spectra®, load the line with
approximately 30 pounds for 30 seconds. Place the
line on the connector link.
4. Feed the running end of the line through the slider
and directly to the line attachment tape on the canopy.
Make sure that there are no twists to the line or it is
around the other lines. Run through the attachment
tape and re-create the original knot. [Figure B]
5. Tension the line using adjacent lines for reference.
[Figure C]
6. Mark the location for the entry point for the cascade
line. [Figure D]
7. Cut a piece of line approximately18 inches longer than
the original cascade.
8. Finger-trap the cascade into the main line and sew
with either a zigzag or bar tack. [Figure E]
9. Attach the main line to the line attachment loop as per
the original knot configuration.
10. Tension the line against the adjacent lines and secure
the knot. [Figure F] Repeat with the cascade.
11. Finger-trap the running end of the lines and sew with
either a zigzag or bar tack. [Figure G]
Inspection
• Check the length of the main line and the cascade line
under tension against adjacent lines.
• Check stitching such as zigzag or bar tacks.
• Check line continuity.
Left Right
E B
A - UST - upper steering lines
B - Lower control line(s)
C - LST - lower steering lines
D - BRK - tog line
E - Lower control line toggle setting
Allow at least 6 inches extra for finger-trapping
Mark
Brake-set loop
Toggle mark
Square Canopy—Control Line Replacement
• Applicable products: Square main canopies
• Description: Replacement of the control line
assemblies on square main canopies
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; suspension
line—type and color to match. Most control line
assemblies utilize two or more types of line: one for
the upper control lines and a stronger one for the lower
control lines.
• Machines: 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI and
1 inch × 42 stitch bar tack (optional)
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper, marking pencil,
6-inch ruler, tape measure, and small safety pins with
marker flags
Procedure
Some manufacturers provide line measurements for their
canopies in their owner’s manuals. If so, the rigger should
thoroughly measure the control line assembly and compare
the measurements against those in the manual. Over time and
use, the control lines have a tendency to stretch and change
dimensions. At the same time, the rigger needs to compare
the right and left side assemblies against each other for any
differences. It is not uncommon for the left and right control
lines to be different lengths, having been changed to remove a
slight turn or change the opening characteristics. Figure A is
a sample chart that the rigger can fill in to document the
various dimensions needed to repair or replace control lines.
Disassembly
1. After measuring the control lines, remove them from
one side only. Leave the other side for a reference to
check the new lines against both for measurements
and construction.
Reassembly
1. Determine how many upper control lines there are
on the canopy. Four is the most common and this
procedure uses this number for the example. With four
upper control lines, there are really two continuous
lines forming the assembly. Each pair of upper lines
is folded in the middle to form two legs of the upper
assembly. Each line is therefore measured at twice
the A dimension plus 12 inches. If the upper control
lines have different lengths, make sure to use the
longest measurement to determine the cut length for
A. [Figure A]
2. Using a finger-trapping needle or wire, finger-trap a
loop at the center of each of the lines so the result is a
line with a loop at the center with two legs extending
from it. [Figure B] The eye of the loop should be no
more than .25 inch with the fingertrapped portion 1 inch
long. Bar tack or zigzag the finger-trapped section.
3. There are two types of lower control line configurations:
a continuous line and a non-continuous line. The
continuous line is one piece with a brake loop
finger-trapped into it at the proper location. The non-
continuous line consists of two pieces that form the
upper lower and lower lower control line, as well as
the brake loop. The continuous line configuration is
found primarily on the older generation main canopies
and on many of today’s reserve canopies. The non-
continuous configuration is found on most of the
modern main canopies due to the ease of replacement
because of wear.
Continuous Line Method
1. Take a piece of line used for the lower control line and
cut a line equal to the B dimension in Figure A plus 12
inches. On this line, measure from one end 8 inches
plus the C dimension from Figure A and mark at that
location. This will be the bottom of the brake loop.
Mark the brake loop location according to Figure C.
2. Take another piece of the lower brake loop line
approximately 12 inches long. Finger-trap the brake
loop assembly according to Figure D. Make sure the
ends are scissor cut and tapered. Bar tack or zigzag
the assembly. [Figure E]
3. Measure and mark the C dimension from the
bottom of the brake loop. Run the bitter end of the
lower control line thru the eyes of two of the upper
control lines and finger-trap the line back into
itself. [Figure F] Adjust the finger-trap to allow
for shrinkage. This completes the continuous line
method of lower control line fabrication.
Non-continuous Line Method
1. Take a piece of line used for the lower control line
and cut it at the C dimension from Figure A plus 12
inches. Mark at 6 inches from one end and finger-trap
a loop .5–1 inch long as per Figure G.
2. Take a second piece of control line material and cut
it to the D dimension from Figure A plus 12 inches
additional. Mark at 6 inches from one end.
3. Finger-trap this line thru the loop at the end of
the upper lower control line. Make sure there is a
minimum of 4 inches finger-trapped in the line and
that the lower loop is tight against the upper loop.
4. Bar tack or zigzag the finger-trapped portions to secure
them. [Figure H]
5. Measure and mark the C dimension from the bottom
of the brake loop. Run the bitter end of the lower
control line thru the eyes of two of the upper control
lines and finger-trap the line back into itself. Adjust
the finger-trap to allow for shrinkage. This completes
the non-continuous line method of lower control
line fabrication.
6. Measure the upper control lines according to
dimension A plus .5 inch. If the upper control lines
are of uneven dimensions, make sure that they are
marked accordingly.
7. Lay the canopy on the floor with the trailing edge flat
and straight and the line attachment tabs exposed. Lay
the upper control lines so that they run to the correct
attachment points and route them through the tabs.
[Figure I]
8. Make sure that the lines do not have a twist in them
and finger-trap the lines back into themselves with a
minimum of a 4 inches finger-trap. Leave the running
ends exposed. [Figure J] Do not trim the excess line.
9. Anchor the brake loop securely and apply tension
through the complete control line assembly. Measure
the dimension A plus B starting at the outside corner of
the trailing edge. Adjust the tension of the finger-trap
to allow for shrinkage. Pin the finger-trapped section
with a marker flag. [Figure K] Repeat with each upper
control line until complete.
10. After setting the dimension for each upper control
line, bar tack or zigzag each section. Trim the excess
so that the end retreats into the line.
11. Measure the dimension D on the lower control line to
set the toggle location. [Figure L] If the canopy is on
risers, route the lower control line thru the guide ring
and tie the steering toggle in place.
Inspection
• Check finished dimensions against original dimensions
according to Figure A.
• Check that all finger-trapped junctions are secured
with either a bar tack or zigzag.
• Make sure that there are no twists in the lines.
• Check that the steering toggles (if used) are tied
on securely.
Square Canopy—Crossport Repair
• Applicable products: Square main canopies with
crossports
• Description: Repair of damaged crossports in square
main canopies
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; fabric—type and
color to match
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, pin board, straight pins, patching
triangle, and hot knife
Procedure
There is no limit as to how many crossports may be repaired
on a main canopy. Reserve canopies are another matter.
The number and authority to repair crossports on a reserve
varies between manufacturers. Before attempting to repair
the crossports of a reserve, first check with the manufacturer.
Disassembly
1. Many times, when the crossport is damaged, there is
extensive gathering and distortion of the fabric. Before
progressing, smooth out the fabric to reshape the rib
as close as possible to its original shape.
Reassembly
1. The basic idea of the crossport repair is a three-sided
patch sewn the same as a standard French fell seam
patch. The fourth side is open and re-cut to the shape
of the crossport. [Figure A] However, if the damage
is extensive enough, it may be advisable to patch the
complete crossport area and then re-cut the crossport
in its original shape with a hot knife.
2. Pin the rib to the pin board.
3. Mark out the damaged area as you would a standard
patch. Lay the patch material in place and pin.
4. Sew the patch in place with a seam 1⁄16 inch from
the edge.
5. Turn the patch over, fold the seam, and sew as a
standard patch. [Figure B]
6. Lay the repaired rib on a suitable surface and re-cut
the crossport shape in the exposed edge of the patch
material with the hot knife. [Figure C]
Inspection
• Verify the seams of the patch are even and thread
tension is correct.
• Hot knifed edge of the crossport must be smooth
and even.
Line
UST
LST
BK-TOG
Left
Right
Square Canopy—Trim Check and Re-trim
• Applicable products: Square main canopies
• Description: Re-trimming the suspension lines of main
canopies to return to the original trim specs
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread
• Machines: 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI or 1
inch × 42 stitch bar tack (optional)
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, 25-foot tape measure, and
pony clamp
Procedure
Checking and re-trimming main canopies is a common
requirement for riggers. All canopies and all kinds of
suspension lines get out of trim in time with use. The rigger
that knows how to quickly check the trim on a customer’s
canopy, and then determine how much work it takes to return
it to the original configuration is performing a valuable
service. In most cases, as long as the suspension lines are
in good condition, re-trimming a canopy adds hundreds of
jumps to the life of the canopy and returns the performance
to almost as good as new. The chart shown in Figure A is
tailored to apply to normal ram-air canopies. Certain designs,
such as elliptical canopies, may have nonstandard trim
measurements that require more detailed measurements. The
rigger should consult the manufacturer’s manuals or technical
data for these canopies.
Disassembly
1. The first thing the rigger must do is to complete a
measurement of the lines of the canopy. The chart
in Figure A shows a matrix for measuring the lines
of the canopy. Simply fill in the boxes for each
dimension measured.
2. Start by laying the canopy on the left side, anchor
the connector links, and flake it out as if for packing.
Most canopy lines are measured from the inside of
the connector links, which is called the zero point.
3. Anchor the end of the tape measure even with the zero
mark at the end of the lines using the pony clamp.
[Figure B]
4. Start with the top outside right front corner line of the
canopy. This line will be line 1A. Depending on the
number of cells to the canopy, on a 7-cell canopy, the
left corner line will be line 8A. On a 9-cell canopy,
this line will be line 10A. Make sure that the canopy
is oriented correctly so that the measurement sequence
follows the boxes on the chart.
5. Measure all the A lines first and then proceed to the B,
C, and D line groups. The lines should be measured
under approximately 10 pounds of tension. As the
rigger moves through the lines and changes riser
groups, the end of the tape measure should be moved
to the corresponding connector link and re-clamped.
6. Measure the control line groups and fill in the boxes.
Reassembly
1. Compare the measurements to the original line lengths
as in the manual.
2. Depending on the type of canopy and type of line
used, most canopies tend to have the center A lines
stretch due to the load on opening. The outside lines
that attach to the stabilizers and the control lines tend
to shrink due to the friction generated by the slider
on opening. The key concept to remember is that
the length of the lines is not the critical dimension.
What is most important is the trim differential, which
determines the angle of attack of the canopy. The trim
differential is the difference in the line length between
the A, B, C, and D lines. The most accurate method
of measuring this is to use the A lines as the base
dimension and then measure A-B, A-C, and A-D. This
method takes into consideration the tolerance allowed.
This dimension is what makes the canopy open and
fly correctly. If the overall length of the lines is 2–3
inches longer or shorter, but the trim is correct, there
is probably no appreciable effect on the canopy. With
this in mind, it may be desirable to “shortline” the
canopy during the trim process in order to not have
to replace any main lines.
3. Because of the fact that the cascaded main lines may
stretch at different rates, the adjustment to be made
to the lines that have stretched (i.e., gotten longer)
needs to be done at the canopy end and not at the
connector link.
4. Remove the bar tacks or zigzag stitching at the canopy
end of the lines.
5. Adjust the line length as needed to return to the
original dimensions. Re-tie the knots or finger-trap
as necessary and re-sew as per the original.
6. For the lines that may have shrunk in length, it may
be possible to gain as much as 2–3 inches of line
adjustment by utilizing the extra line that is finger-
trapped into each line attachment point. Depending
on the type of line used on the canopy, the amount of
excess line finger-trapped may vary. Dacron lines can
have as little as 2–3 inches inserted into the finger-
trap and hold securely. The smaller and more slippery
Spectra® line is recommended to have at least 6 inches
of line inserted into the finger-trap. So, depending on
the amount of line that is needed to be gained for the
trim adjustment, the rigger may be able to adjust each
end of the line to gain the necessary adjustment.
7. If this needed line can be gained, remove the bar tacks or
zigzag at each end of the line and reattach after adjusting
the length. Before permanently attaching, the rigger
should simply tie the lines in place and check the trim.
If everything is within limits, then re-tie or finger-trap
and re-stitch with bar tacks or zigzag as per the original.
Inspection
• Check final trim dimensions against original
• Check continuity so there are no twists or crossed lines
• Verify all junctions are either knotted or finger-trapped
and sewn as per the original
Section 2, Container
Container repairs share some techniques with canopy repairs,
such as single-side patches. Most repairs, however, involve
replacement of panels or flaps, Velcro ®, grommets, plastic
stiffeners, worn binding tape, and broken hand tackings.
Even more so than canopy repairs, the cosmetic results of the
container repair are most important to the customer and, thus,
the rigger. A shoddy repair to the container is immediately
obvious each time the user puts on the parachute. Even if it is
functional, it has to look good to instill confidence in the user.
The following are repairs found in Section 2, Container:
• Container fabric panel repair
• Container grommet replacement
• Container Velcro® replacement
• Container plastic stiffener replacement
• Main container side flap replacement
• Bottom of container (BOC) pocket replacement
• 3-ring release housing replacement
Container Fabric Panel Repair
• Applicable products: All types of parachute container
systems.
• Description: Application of a patch repair to container
panels.
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; fabric—type
and color to match; nylon tapes—assorted types and
widths, such as Type-3, Type-4, or Type-12
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
and 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, hot knife, hot glue gun, butane
lighter, ripstop tape (optional), and straight pins
Procedure
Besides holding the canopy, the container’s main function
is to protect the canopy from damage. To that end, a certain
amount of wear and damage is to be expected. The most
common repairs involve re-stitching broken threads and
binding tape repairs. Other damage involves tears, punctures,
and fabric abrasion. The appropriate repair varies according
to need. There are five primary repair procedures to basic
panel repairs: re-stitching, binding tape repair, hidden
patches, overlay patches, and single-side fabric patches.
Disassembly
1. Remove all extraneous parts from the container,
including canopies, handles, toggles, etc.
2. Inspect the damaged area to determine which repair
method is appropriate.
Reassembly
Restitching
1. Using the same type and color of thread, sew directly
over the original stitching. The amount of overstitch
may vary according to location. If the affected area
is completely exposed and accessible, overstitch the
ends of the damaged area a minimum of 1.25 inches.
If this is not possible, then backstitch a minimum of
3 stitches to lock the ends. Repair complete.
Binding Tape Repair or Splice
1. Many times the binding tape is worn through
due to bridle abrasion or other wear patterns.
[Figure A] Rather than remove the panel and rebind
it, a practical and cost effective repair is to overlay a
section of new binding over the damaged area.
2. Cut a piece of binding tape a minimum of 1 inch longer
than the damaged area. Scissor cut the tape and then
lightly sear with the butane lighter. [Figure B] If the
tape is cut with a hot knife and then folded, the cut
edge cracks at the hot-knifed end. Searing with the
lighter results in a more flexible end. Fold the tape
in half lengthwise to form a crease. Take a marking
pencil and mark the crease. [Figure C]
3. Overlay the new tape over the damaged area and mark
the start of where the new tape begins and covers the
damaged area completely. [Figure D]
4. Overstitch the original tape on the inside row up to the
point where the new tape is to start. Leave the needle
in the material. Place the folded tape over the damaged
area and hold tightly in place. Make sure that the edge
is pushed up against the original and the end is against
the needle. [Figure E] The next stitch should catch
the new tape.
5. Stitch the new piece and overstitch the end a minimum
of 1.25 inches or 3 stitches. Repeat with the outside
row of stitches. Repair complete.
Hidden Patches
This type of repair has never had a name, but it is self-
descriptive. It works well on tears and punctures. Done
properly, it is a very cosmetic and cost effective repair.
1. Take a piece of adhesive tape and place on the outside of
the damaged area to hold the edges together. [Figure F]
2. Turn the panel inside out, take the glue gun and glue
a small piece of Type-3 tape 1 inch longer over the
damaged area. [Figure G] Do not fold the ends under.
Remove the adhesive tape from the outside.
3. Stitch around the outer perimeter of the Type-3 tape
using matching colored thread to the container fabric.
If necessary, increase the upper thread tension so that
the outside (bottom) thread shows good tension.
4. Take the zigzag machine, again with matching color
thread, and set the stitch width to its widest setting
and 7–11 SPI length. Overstitch the exposed edges
of the cut area to draw them together. [Figure H]
Repair complete.
Overlay Patches
These are similar to a fabric patch but use a piece of tape or
webbing to cover the damaged area. In effect, it is the same
as the hidden patch but usually larger and is on the outside
of the panel. It is a sturdy patch but not very cosmetic.
1. Using a hot knife, cut a piece of tape or webbing, such
as Type-12, big enough to cover the damaged area.
Allow enough to fold the cut ends under. Fold the ends
under and glue down to itself. [Figure I]
2. Lay the patch in place over the damaged area and mark
the corners with a marking pencil. [Figure J]
3. Take a straight pin and transfer the corners of the patch
area through to the inside. [Figure K]
4. If on a main container, take a piece of Type-3 tape big
enough to match the outside patch as marked. Cover
the inside of the damaged area with the tape.
5. Pin or glue the tape patch to the inside as marked. Use
the single needle to sew around the patch overstitching
the ends a minimum of 1 inch.
6. Take the zigzag machine and stitch the edges of the
damaged area together as described in step 4, Hidden
Patches. [Figure L] Repair complete.
Single-Side Fabric Patches
For most fabric patches on a container panel, there is not
enough area to perform a proper French fell seam patch.
Consequently, the single-side patch is the most common
technique used. By using matching fabric and thread, a large
damaged area may be covered to affect the necessary repair.
While called a single-side patch, in effect it is an enlarged
version of the overlay patch. A smaller piece of webbing or
fabric is used to cover the damaged area on the inside and the
outside is covered with the single-side patch. This technique
is used where there may be large holes or widespread damage
and replacement of the panel is not practical.
1. Duplicate steps 1–5 that was used in the “Overlay
Patches” section above but substitute webbing for
the inside patch and use container fabric for the
outside patch.
2. Fold the edges of the outside patch under a minimum
of .5 inch. Stitch around the perimeter approximately
.12 inch from the edge. Run a second row of stitches
approximately .25 inch inside and parallel to the
first. [Figure M] This gives added strength to the
patch and an appearance of a French fell seam patch.
Repair complete.
Inspection
• Check thread tensions, stitches per inch, and overstitch
lengths.
• Damaged area must be covered completely.
• For the overlay and single-side patches, make sure
the stitch patterns catch both sides of the patch
materials completely.
Container Grommet Replacement
• Applicable products: All types of containers that use
grommets
• Description: Replacement of damaged grommets of
all types
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; grommets—size,
type, and material to match
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11
SPI, 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6 inch ruler, grommet die set—size to match
grommets, leather mallet, grommet cutting board, hole
punch to match grommet size, basting tip (optional),
and diagonal wire cutters—8 inch minimum
Procedure
There are many types of grommets used in parachute container
manufacture. Older style military surplus containers used flat
grommets made of brass with a chrome finish, which were
designed to work with cones. Most modern container systems
use rolled rim spur grommets and washers. The most common
size is the “O.” For many years, regular brass grommets were
used and then nickel plated ones became the norm. In recent
years, stainless steel has come to be the preferred type due
to the ability to resist deformation and corrosion. Today,
there are two types of “O” stainless grommets. The first is
the regular or “short shank.” Recently, a long shank version
has become available. It has proven to be very versatile and
popular. This repair procedure focuses primarily on the “O”
spur grommet and washer, but the technique can be applied
to all types of grommets.
Disassembly—Grommet Replacement
This is for replacing a damaged grommet or changing
from brass to stainless steel. Use the cutters to remove the
grommet. If the grommet is set into a fabric/webbing base,
fold the material back to expose the washer. Using the
diagonal cutter, cut through the washer and then peel it back
from the grommet. [Figures A and B] Grasp the grommet
and peel it from the material.
Reassembly—Grommet Replacement
If the hole is intact and undamaged, simply insert the
replacement grommet into the material from the correct side,
and set with the grommet die. Make sure that the grommet
is set sufficiently so that there is no exposed edge to snag
lines or material.
Material Repair and Grommet Replacement
If, after removing the grommet, the fabric is damaged so that
the grommet cannot be set properly, use the zigzag machine
to stitch around the perimeter of the hole, reducing its size.
[Figure C]
1. Take the basting tip and pass it through the hole,
searing the material. [Figure D] This solidifies the
frayed and raw edge of the damaged material.
2. Set the grommet in the repaired hole. [Figure E]
Inspection
• Check the grommet orientation.
• Grommet must be set tightly.
• There should be no sharp edges on inside of grommet.
Container Velcro® Replacement
• Applicable products: Most parachute assemblies that
use Velcro®
• Description: Main riser cover Velcro® replacement
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; Velcro®—color,
width, and type to match
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, and 6-inch ruler
Procedure
The name Velcro ® is a trade name for what is known as
“pressure sensitive hook and loop fastener.” It is a commonly
used material for closure systems. Before the advent of
Velcro®, snaps and zippers were the preferred method of
closing containers. Velcro ® changed how the parachute
industry designed products. In the late 1970s and early
1980s, there was a tendency to overdo the use of Velcro® and
problems with durability and interaction with other materials
became known. Since then, the use of Velcro ® has been
reduced to those applications where it is superior to other
methods and can be easily replaced.
Disassembly
1. Identify the nature of the use of the Velcro ®. Before
you remove the piece, note how it is attached to the
container. Some designs are such that several layers of
construction have to be reversed to get to the location
where the Velcro ® was sewn on. If this is the case,
the rigger may have to make a very expensive repair
to replace a small piece of Velcro®.
Reassembly
1. Cut the replacement Velcro ® to size. Velcro ® is
normally scissor cut, not cut with a hot knife.
2. Position the Velcro® and stitch around the perimeter
at .12 inch from the edge. For any pieces, 1 inch in
width or wider, sew a row of stitching down the center.
[Figure A] This prevents the center from being pulled
up from the material and loading the outside row of
stitching. [Figure B]
3. Some applications have the Velcro® sewn to a piece
of tape for support. Again, if it is 1 inch or more wide,
sew down the center to prevent lifting.
4. Depending on the application, the mating loop piece
of Velcro® may be wider than the hook to provide
additional protection. That is, the hook may be .75
inch wide and the loop 1 inch wide.
Inspection
• Check that thread tension is correct.
• Verify orientation is correct.
• Check that center stitching is used where needed.
Container Plastic Stiffener Replacement
• Applicable products: All types of containers that use
plastic stiffeners
• Description: Replacement of damaged plastic
stiffeners of all types
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; grommets—size,
type, and material to match; and plastic stiffeners—
type and thickness to match
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–9 SPI
and 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, grommet die set—size to match
grommets, leather mallet, grommet cutting board, hole
punch to match grommet size, basting tip, diagonal
wire cutters—8 inch minimum, heavy shears or tin
snips, electric drill and 3⁄8 inch drill bit, and feeler
gauge—.010 inch
Procedure
The term “plastic,” when used in conjunction for the materials
used as stiffeners in modern parachute containers, is a
misnomer. In reality, the composition of the material varies.
The most common material used today is molydisulfide
(MDS) nylon. In addition, Lexan ®, a clear polycarbonate
material and high density polyethelyne (HDPE), are also used.
The most common thicknesses used are .025 inch, .040 inch,
and .060 inch, which are standard commercial thicknesses
commonly available. Stiffeners are used primarily as backing
for grommets to spread the load placed on closing flaps.
Instead of focusing the load on the diameter of the grommet,
it is spread out across the length of the stiffener, resulting in a
smoother flap and container. Consequently, replacing plastic
stiffeners almost always requires replacing the grommet as
well. Usually the plastic breaks at the grommet location
because the hole for the grommet is the weak point. The
following procedure shows the replacement of the bottom
main flap stiffener of a Javelin container.
Disassembly
1. Unpick the stitching that holds the binding tape to the
bottom flap. [Figure A] Remove the grommet.
2. Remove the stitching that holds the stiffener in
position. Remove the stiffener.
Reassembly
1. Use the original stiffener as a template to cut a
new stiffener. [Figure B] While many of the older
containers use HDPE or other materials, most of the
newer designs use MDS nylon because of its superior
properties. Because of this, many riggers use MDS
exclusively for replacing any stiffeners.
2. Mark out the outline of the original stiffener on the
MDS. Mark the center of the hole for the grommet
very precisely.
3. Use the basting tip to mark the center of the hole for
the grommet. Push the tip through the MDS until the
shoulder of the tip makes an indentation in the MDS.
[Figures C, D, and E] This forms a pilot hole for
the drill.
4. Using heavy shears or tin snips, cut the MDS nylon to
shape. Clip the corners to remove the sharp ends and, if
the edges are sharp or rough, sand them with sandpaper.
5. Secure the MDS against a piece of wood and drill a 3⁄8
inch hole. While this hole may seem big for the shank
of the grommet, when installed and the material is
punched, it will be the right size. A common mistake
is to make the hole too small and when the grommet
is set, it cracks the plastic.
6. Insert the stiffener in between the layers of fabric of
the bottom flap and let it float inside.
7. Baste the two layers of fabric together with the
single needle.
8. Restitch the binding to the bottom flap. [Figure F]
9. Slide the stiffener to the edge of the flap and align the
hole in the stiffener with the hole in the fabric. Use an
“O” grommet to align the holes. [Figure G]
10. Stitch the stiffener in place as per the original
installation.
11. Insert the grommet with the correct orientation and
set with the grommet set. [Figure H] Make sure that
the grommet is set sufficiently so there is no exposed
edge to snag the lines or material. Use the feeler gauge
to check the gap under the edge of the grommet.
[Figure I] It should be no more than .010 inch. If
more, hit the set again to tighten the grommet.
Inspection
• Verify the stiffener backing is re-sewn.
• Check the grommet orientation.
• The grommet must be set tightly and measured.
• There should be no sharp edges on the inside of the
grommet.
Main Container Side Flap Replacement
• Applicable products: Most modern container systems
• Description: Replacement of a main container side flap
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; Type-3¾ inch
tape—color to match, replacement flap
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 5–9
SPI, 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI, 301 double
needle with tape folder 5–9 SPI, and 1 inch × 42 stitch
bar tack
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, and hot knife
Procedure
The following technique is typical of many modern container
systems. This procedure addresses only the disassembly of
the container and replacement of the factory made part. It
does not address the manufacture of a replacement part.
Disassembly
1. Remove all extraneous parts from the harness/
container assembly.
2. Open the bottom corner of the main container on the
appropriate side.
3. It is necessary to remove the Type-3 binding tape
on the inside seam joining the main body to the
side flap. Depending on the container construction
configuration, there are two options how to do this:
• Option 1: salvage method. With this method, the
binding tape is left undamaged and sewn back in
place after replacing the flap. A slower method,
but good if the rigger does not have the necessary
replacement tape.
• Using a seam ripper, unpick the two rows of
stitching that holds the side flap to the main
container. [Figure A] Start at the lower
corner and continue until approximately
2 inches past where the side flap joins the
riser cover.
• Remove the side flap.
• Option 2: replacement tape method. With this
method, the binding tape is destroyed during the
removal process and replaced with new. A faster
method, but new tape is required.
• Use a hot knife to melt the stitching that holds
the binding tape that attaches the side flap to
the main container. [Figure B] When doing
this, have the side of the tape that faces the
damaged side flap facing up in case you slip
so the wrong flap is not damaged. Proceed
to the point where the side flap stops. Trim
the melted tape at this point.
• Using a seam ripper, unpick the tape
approximately 2 inches past the end of the
side flap. Remove the side flap.
Reassembly
1. Take the new flap and sew it in place on the main
container starting approximately .38 inch from the
corner. [Figure C] On this design and others like it,
the lower end of the main riser cover is unstitched
during removal of the main flap. When sewing the
new flap in place, make sure that the side flap is sewn
to the main container first and then the riser cover on
top of it. Look at the opposite side to see which is on
top and duplicate.
2. If option 1 was used, take the original binding tape,
fold over the seam and sew in place with two rows of
stitching. Note that there is a second row of stitching
sewn directly on top of the inside row of stitching for
reinforcement. [Figure D] This is very important.
3. If option 2 was used, it is necessary to replace the
binding tape with new. Stitch down the loose end of
the binding tape at the top and then overlap the tape
by approximately 2 inches using the double needle
machine and tape binder. [Figure E] Overstitch the
inside row for reinforcement.
4. Trim the bottom end of the binding tape at the corner.
5. Note that the junction of the side flap and riser cover
is overstitched and reinforced as needed. [Figure F]
6. Close the bottom of the container as per the original
and reinforce as required.
Inspection
• Check that the flap is installed correct side out.
• Check the inside binding for reinforcing stitching.
• The side flap/riser cover should be stitched and
reinforced.
• The container bottom must be closed correctly
and reinforced.
Bottom of Container (BOC) Pocket Replacement
• Applicable products: Any main container with a BOC
pocket configuration
• Description: Installation of a BOC pocket to the
main container
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–9 SPI
and 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, and t-pins
Procedure
The following technique is typical of many modern container
systems. This procedure addresses only the disassembly of
the container and replacement of a factory made replacement
part. It does not address the manufacture of a replacement
part. Depending on the size of the container assembly, it may
be possible to do the replacement of the BOC pocket with the
reserve packed. However, the smaller the system, the more
difficult it will be. If the container cannot be placed under
the machine, then remove the reserve canopy.
Disassembly
1. Mark the location of the corners of the BOC pocket
on the container with a marking pencil.
2. Open the lower right corner of the main container.
[Figure A]
3. Remove the old BOC pocket.
Reassembly
1. Locate the new BOC pocket on the container at the
marks of the old pocket and pin in place with T-pins.
[Figure B]
2. Stitch around the perimeter of the pocket with the
single-needle machine. Backstitch at the corners for
reinforcing. [Figure C]
3. Restitch the corner of the main container as per the
original configuration.
Inspection
• Check the orientation of the pocket with the opening
to the right (unless for left-handed deployment).
• Check the stitching and corner reinforcing.
Ring Release Housing Replacement
• Applicable products: All harness and container
systems equipped with a 3-ring release system
• Description: Replacement of damaged or missing
3-ring release housings
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: Nylon supertack, 3-ring housings of the
correct length, heat shrink tubing - ½ inch diameter,
Owner’s Manual for the harness and container
assembly (if available)
• Machines: None
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, hand tacking needle, heat gun,
crimping tool (optional)
Procedure
Replacement of the 3-ring housings may be necessary due
to wear, damage, or stretching of the housings. Correct
installation and tacking of the housings are important to
ensure proper operation of the 3-ring release system.
Disassembly
1. Inspect the original installation to determine the exact
routing of the housings. Some systems have dedicated
channels and/or loops through which they are routed.
In others, the housings are routed under or over back
straps or reserve ripcord housings. If necessary, draw
a diagram of the routing or take a picture so that the
replacement housings are routed correctly.
2. Remove any tackings or clamps that hold the housings
together and/or to the container. Remove the housings
from the system.
Reassembly
1. Install the replacement housings into their respective
locations as per the original installation. Usually the
longer housing is installed first and then the shorter one.
2. Make sure that the flat side of the housing terminal
end is orientated outward so that it lays flat against
the rear of the main riser when the 3-ring release is
assembled correctly. [Figure A]
3. Align the handle end of the housings and secure as
per the original installation. This may be with either
a double clamp or hand tacking. [Figure B] Figure C
shows a typical method of using supertack to secure
the housings together.
4. If hand tacking is used, it is desirable to cover the
tacking with heat shrink tubing. Place a length of
tubing over the housing ends and shrink using the heat
gun. [Figure D]
5. Secure the double housing to the container/back pad
or pocket assembly. Depending on the manufacturer,
it may be necessary to provide a certain amount of
“float” to the housings in order that the loop of the riser
is not loaded or under tension when the main canopy
is deployed. If available, consult the owner’s manual
for correct positioning and tacking. Some systems use
a double clamp to secure the housings together, as well
as to the container or pockets. If these are used, inspect
the clamp to make sure that it was not damaged when
removing the housings and can be reused. Crimp the
housings, making sure that the clamp is tight so the
housings cannot work loose. [Figure E]
6. Route the release cables through the housings to make
sure there are no obstructions.
Inspection
• Check for correct routing of the housings.
• Verify correct orientation of the terminal ends.
• Housings should be secured together at the handle ends.
• Housings should be secured to the container/back pad
or pockets with either clamps or supertack.
• There should be sufficient slack or “float” in the
housings.
• Housings should be clear.