Section 3, Harness and Risers
Harness repairs are almost always a major repair.
Consequently, they are master rigger work. About the only
repairs open to a senior rigger are replacement of ripcord
pockets and Velcro®; and replacement of hand tackings for
ripcords, comfort pads, 3-ring housings, and other hardware.
Major harness repairs are the most critical maintenance
operations a rigger can perform on a parachute assembly.
Even seemingly innocuous repairs, if done incorrectly, can
have fatal consequences. Depending on the type of harness
design, repairs to the harness main lift web or leg straps
involve major repair or remanufacture.
According to 14 CFR part 65, section 65.129 (e) and (f), “No
certificated parachute rigger may – (e) Pack, maintain, or
alter a parachute in any manner that deviates from procedures
approved by the Administrator or the manufacturer of the
parachute; or (f) Exercise the privileges of his certificate and
type rating unless he understands the current manufacturer’s
instructions for the operation involved...” In other words,
because this operation is a major repair, the person doing
the work must be a currently certificated Master Parachute
Rigger with the appropriate ratings.
In the past, many master riggers felt that they were
empowered to undertake almost any task. The attitude was,
“We can lift the TSO label, build a new harness, and put the
TSO label back on.” This is not the case. Just because an
individual has a master rigger license does not mean he or
she is qualified to undertake a complex repair.
There are four primary areas of concern that need to be
addressed in any repair program. They are as follows:
1. Inspection, damage identification, and repair planning
2. Teardown and cleanup
3. Preparation and reconstruction
4. Quality control inspection and recordkeeping
Main risers are components that are subject to extreme wear
and tear. The only items that are practical for repair are
the 3-ring locking loops and the toggle mounting/Velcro ®
assembly. Once the webbing begins to show wear, it is more
practical to replace than repair them.
The following are repairs found in Section 3, Harness
and Risers:
• Chest strap replacement
• Lower leg strap shortening
• Ripcord pocket Velcro® replacement
• Articulated upper leg hardware replacement
• Standard harness main lift web replacement
• Main riser 3-ring locking loop replacement
• Main riser steering toggle Velcro® replacement
Chest Strap Replacement
• Applicable products: Most standard harness
configurations
• Description: Replacement of chest strap due to damage
or for lengthening
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—5-cord nylon thread
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11
SPI, heavy-duty harness machine—Singer 7–33 or
equivalent-stitch length to match the original, and 308
zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, ruler, hot glue gun, and hot knife
Procedure
This procedure deals with the longer side of the chest strap,
usually the left, which is threaded through the chest adapter
or through an adjustable V-ring. Replacing the opposite side
would mirror this process.
Disassembly
1. Examine the chest strap/MLW junction to determine
if the backpad needs to be removed from the harness
to access the junction. If so, remove the pad from the
harness to allow access to the junction. [Figure A]
2. Many harnesses have the reserve ripcord housing
located on the left side. The housing needs to be
disconnected at this location. It is usually secured to
a loop located at the chest strap junction. During the
replacement process, this loop is removed and may
be reused if in good condition.
3. Remove the harness stitching and any other stitching
from the junction making sure not to damage the main
lift web. [Figure B]
4. Remove the old chest strap webbing from the main lift
web. Pay particular attention to the end of the webbing.
While most chest straps are installed at right angles to
the main lift web, some have an angle cut at the end
for better fit. If the webbing has an angle, make sure
to duplicate it.
5. Clean the junction area of old thread, as well as any
glue residue on the inside of the main lift web.
6. Take the marking pencil and mark the points of the
stitch pattern for the reassembly. [Figure C] Most
chest straps are installed with a 3-point WW in a
horizontal orientation, but the rigger should duplicate
the original design.
7. If the procedure is a replacement of a damaged chest
strap, then it should be replaced to the original length.
If so, then remove the rolled stop end so that the
finished length may be determined. If the chest strap
is to be lengthened, then an appropriate length of
webbing needs to be determined. The finished length
should be measured from the outside of the main lift
web plus 3.50 inches. [Figure D]
Reassembly
1. Cut a piece of webbing to the appropriate length. If
needed, cut the MLW end of the strap at an angle.
[Figure E]
2. Insert the end of the webbing into the MLW junction.
Align the end of the chest strap with the outside edge
of the MLW. Insert the housing loop back into the
junction as well. Lightly glue the MLW to the chest
strap. [Figure F] Do not use too much glue.
3. Some harnesses are pre-sewn along the edges
with a medium duty machine and E thread. If so,
duplicate this.
4. Using the harness machine and 5-cord nylon thread,
sew the junction as marked with the original pattern.
[Figure G]
5. Mark the length of the chest strap to include enough
needed for the stop end. If the chest strap is to be
configured for a thread-thru adapter, an additional
3.50 inches is needed for the roll back.
6. After determining the cut length, place a mark at 3.50
inches on the BACK side of the chest strap. Fold to
this mark and then fold the webbing one more time
for three layers. [Figures H and I]
7. Using the zigzag machine, sew across the center of
the stop end fold. This results in a loose fold that jams
against the adapter in the event of slippage of the chest
strap. [Figure J]
8. If the MLW was attached to the backpad assembly,
reattach as per the original configuration. If the backpad
is attached in such a manner that does not allow
inspection of the back side of the MLW, inspect the
stitching at this time before reattaching the backpad.
9. Reinstall the ripcord housing and secure.
Inspection
• Inspect the harness stitching for correct stitch length,
tension, and appropriate pattern.
• Reattach the MLW to the backpad as needed.
• The stop end must be sewn and oriented correctly.
• Verify the chest strap is the correct length.
• The ripcord housing must be reinstalled and tacked.
Lower Leg Strap Shortening
• Applicable products: All harness configurations
• Description: Shortening of the lower leg straps
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: 5-cord nylon thread—color to match
original
• Machines: Heavy-duty harness machine—Singer 7–33
or equivalent 5–7 SPI
• Equipment: Seam ripper or scalpel, marking pencil,
ruler, and hot knife
Procedure
The shortening of the leg strap, while a relatively
straightforward process, is an extremely important procedure.
If done improperly, it could result in the harness fitting
improperly or the leg straps to come unthreaded and the user
to fall out during opening.
Disassembly
1. If the leg strap is of the thread-thru configuration,
unthread the webbing from the leg adapter. If the leg
strap has an adjustable “V” ring used in conjunction
with a snap, disconnect the “V” ring from the snap.
Lay the leg strap out flat.
2. Remove the harness stitching from the rolled end of
the webbing.
3. Measure the required distance from the end of the strap
that is required for shortening and mark accordingly.
[Figure A]
4. Trim the webbing at the mark using the hot knife.
Reassembly
1. For the thread-thru configuration, place a mark at 3.50
inches from the end of the webbing on the bottom of
the webbing. [Figure B] This is the “fold to” mark
for the first fold of the webbing. Fold one more time
for a total of three layers of webbing. [Figure C]
2. Sew the rolled stop end according to Figure D with
the harness machine.
3. For the “V” ring configuration, place a mark at 2 inches
from the top end of the webbing. This is also the “fold
to” mark for the first fold. Make two additional folds
for a total of four layers.
4. Sew the rolled stop end according to Figure E with
the harness machine.
Inspection
• Check the stitching for the correct pattern and thread
tension.
• For the thread-thru configuration, make sure there is no
twist to the leg strap and thread the webbing through
the leg adapter. The rolled end should face outward.
• For the “V” ring configuration, connect the “V” ring to
the snap. The rolled stop end should also face outward.
Ripcord Pocket Velcro® Replacement
• Applicable products: Any harness configuration with
a Velcro® style ripcord pocket configuration
• Description: Replacement of the Velcro ® of the
ripcord pocket
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match original; hook and
loop Velcro®—width and length to match original
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
and 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, and glue gun
Procedure
Disassembly
1. Depending on the configuration, it may be necessary to
remove the ripcord housing from its attachment point
on the harness for access to the pocket. If the harness
is attached to the backpad, disconnect this as well.
2. Remove the E thread stitch pattern that forms the
pocket on the MLW. [Figure A]
3. Mark the ends of the old Velcro® and remove from the
inside of the webbing. Note which side of the webbing
the hook and loop are located.
Reassembly
1. Cut the replacement Velcro® to the correct length.
2. Glue the Velcro® pieces to their respective locations
on the inside of the webbing.
3. Using the single needle machine, sew around
the perimeter of the Velcro ®, as well as a row of
stitching down the center. [Figure B] Repeat for the
opposite side.
4. Re-sew the pocket with two rows of single needle
stitching with E thread. [Figure C]
5. Reattach the harness to the backpad.
6. Reinstall the ripcord housing to the harness.
Inspection
• Verify the correct orientation of the Velcro ® in
the pocket.
• The correct stitch pattern must be used for the Velcro®.
• Verify the ripcord pocket is re-sewn.
• The backpad must be reattached (if needed).
• The ripcord housing must be reinstalled.
Articulated Upper Leg Hardware Replacement
• Applicable products: Most articulated harness
configurations
• Description: Replacement of the upper leg strap
hardware
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; 5-cord nylon
thread—color to match; Type-8 webbing—color
to match; Type-12 webbing, Type-4 1-inch tape,
replacement adapter—MS-22040
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11
SPI, 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI, heavy-duty
harness machine—Singer 7–33 or equivalent, stitch
to match the original
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel,
marking pencil, ruler, glue gun, and 4-point W-W
pattern template
Procedure
The following procedure is required when the knurling
on the friction bar has worn to the point that the leg strap
would slip on opening. In addition, the webbing at the ring
location shows wear and is replaced at the same time. This
procedure is typical for a Flexon and Talon 2 articulated
harness configuration.
Disassembly
1. Remove the leg pad assembly.
2. Remove the leg strap by cutting the webbing.
Reassembly
1. Use Figure A to cut a replacement leg strap and parts.
2. Take the Ty-8 webbing and sew a bowtie fold with
the Ty-4 tape buffer at the 3.50 inch mark. [Figure B]
3. Turn the adapter upside down and install the Ty-8
webbing as shown and glue in place. [Figure C]
4. Install the bowtie around the ring and glue in place.
[Figure D] The picture shows the inside orientation
of the harness.
5. Double check the correct orientation of the hardware.
[Figure E]
6. Mark the stitch pattern. [Figure F]
7. Sew the webbing with the harness machine in a 4-point
W-W pattern [Figure G]
8. Reinstall the leg pad. Route the upper pad flap through
the adapter from the bottom and zigzag. [Figure H]
9. Fold the bottom pad under and zigzag in place.
[Figure I] Note that the ends of the upper and lower
pads are offset to reduce the thickness to be sewn.
Inspection
• Verify the hardware orientation is correct.
• Verify the stitch pattern is correct.
• The leg pad must be reinstalled correctly.
3.62
2.50
0.50
10.50
7.75
3.50
3.0
Description
5010 Ring
Adjustable adapter
Ring buffer
Adapter buffer
Upper leg strap
REQD
Material
RW-0
MS-22040
TY-4
TY-12
TY-8
Size
--
--
3.00"
3.25"
10.50"
No.
3 1 524
Standard Harness Main Lift Web Replacement
• Applicable products: Most standard harness
configurations
• Description: Complete replacement of one side of a
standard harness main lift web
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match; 5-cord nylon
thread—color to match; Type-7 webbing—color to
match; Type-8 webbing—color to match; Type-12
webbing—color to match
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11
SPI, 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI, and heavy-
duty harness machine—Singer 7–33 or equivalent
5–7 SPI
• Equipment: Hot knife and cutting glass, hot glue
gun, measuring rulers: 6, 18, and 36 inch, sewing
pattern templates, marking pencils, scissors and thread
snips, Exacto ® knife or scalpel, hemostats, Type-4
1-inch tape—color to match; Type-3 tape—color to
match; 1½ inch Velcro®—hook and loop, and 1-inch
Velcro®—hook and loop
Background
The following steps provide an overview of the procedure
to follow:
Step One
The first thing the rigger must do is to inspect the parachute
harness to identify the make and model and determine the
extent of the damage. In some cases, particularly for older
designs, it may not be practical or economically feasible
to repair the harness. If the rigger determines that repair is
practical, he or she must then establish a repair plan for the
project. There are two reasons for this: one, that the project
is done logically and efficiently and two, if not having done
this type of repair before, having contacted the manufacturer
for guidance, the rigger can explain what he or she intends
to do to affect the repair.
The rigger must make detailed measurements of the harness.
Figure A shows a typical harness configuration and the
needed dimensions. On a situation where one side of the
harness is intact and can be used for reference, the rigger
still needs dimensions to work against to determine how
much material to order or bill to the job. If both sides of the
harness are damaged, great care must be taken to ensure the
correct measurements of the final repair.
Step Two
Teardown and cleanup is the second most important part of
the process. It is important that all the old thread, glue, and
damaged webbing are removed. Leaving any of these in place
Backpad
D B
A H
Overall MLW
Upper MLW
Lower MLW
Reserve riser
Chest strap
Upper leg strap
Lower leg strap
Horizontal back strap
and sewing over them results in a poor appearance. Also, it is
not uncommon to find additional damage or wear at this point
that was not identified during the initial inspection process.
Step Three
After the teardown and cleanup, the replacement webbing can
be measured, cut, and pre-sewn in preparation for installation
to the harness assembly. The construction sequence is
followed. In certain cases, it may be desirable to replace not
just damaged parts but worn ones to give the final result a
more cosmetic appearance. An example is when replacing
a main lift web, it does not look good to reuse the old chest
strap webbing when the main lift web is new material.
Step Four
After the repair is completed, a thorough quality control
program is undertaken. This is especially critical in a
situation where the rigger is working alone and there is no
one to rely on for crosschecking the work. All the critical
points of the repair must be identified and checked as well
as the finished dimensions.
Procedure
Disassembly
1. Remove all housings, leg pads, and any other parts
that may interfere with the work from the harness.
Disassemble the leg strap/horizontal back strap
junction. [Figure B] Disconnect the upper MLW from
the yoke portion of the backpad if necessary.
2. Disassemble the junction of the diagonal back strap
and main lift web at the 3-ring attachment point.
[Figure C] Be very careful not to damage the diagonal
back strap. If it is damaged, it is a major project to
replace this on most assemblies.
3. Lay out the main lift web assembly and check the
measurements against the initial dimensions. Check
against the opposite side MLW for symmetry.
4. If this side of the harness has a TSO or identification
label attached, carefully remove it for use on the new
assembly. If it is damaged, it may be necessary to get
a new label to replace it. Contact the manufacturer for
guidance. They may require the rigger to return the
old label in exchange for a new one.
Reassembly
1. Note that this configuration consists primarily of two
main pieces of webbing. The front MLW is Type-7
webbing and the rear is Type-8.
2. Measure the new webbing for the main lift webs. Add
5 inches for the riser end fold back and allow at least 6
inches extra for shrinkage. While this may sound like
a lot, nothing is more discouraging than to get to the
end of the project and find that the webbing is short
by an inch or two. A couple inches of scrap is a small
price to pay at this point.
3. Starting at one end of the webbing, measure the riser
end configuration. Fold back and glue in place. If there
is a toggle stow loop on the old harness, do not forget
to glue in place before sewing. [Figure D] Mark the 4
point W-W pattern and sew with the harness machine
and 5-cord nylon thread.
4. Install the steering line guide ring with a duplicate
stitch pattern as per the original. [Figure E] In some
instances, the manufacturer may have used a special
bar tack or other stitch pattern to attach the ring. If the
rigger does not have the same machine, it is necessary
to contact the manufacturer for an acceptable
alternative. This should have been identified in
phase one. Check the distance from the end of the
riser to the top of the ring. The industry standard is
4 inches, but there may be special dimensions for
some applications.
5. Install the toggle Velcro® keepers as per the original.
[Figure F] Complete any other sewing needed, such
as the end of the toggle stow loop.
6. If needed, reattach the TSO label at the appropriate
location. If the label is the original one and is made
from material such as Ty-vek ®, try to follow the
original needle holes to avoid perforating the material.
Too many holes cause the label to tear out.
7. Working from the measurement diagram in Figure A,
mark the location of the 3-ring.
8. Working downward mark the location of the chest
strap, the ripcord pocket, and the bottom of the upper
leg strap. [Figure G]
NOTE: It is necessary to allow for a certain amount
of shrinkage during the sewing process. There are four
areas of shrinkage to allow for:
1. The harness stitching at the 3-ring.
2. The harness stitching at the chest strap.
3. The ripcord pocket.
4. The harness stitching at the leg strap junction.
3-ring
LEFT
Bottom of ripcord pocket
Ripcord pocket velcro
Top of ripcord pocket
The standard rule of thumb for the sum of these
patterns is approximately .75 inch for the length. In
other words, the marked length of the MLW should be
.75 inch longer than the desired finished length. Most
of the shrinkage is in the ripcord pocket and the leg
strap junction. If the rigger has not done this operation
before, he or she may want to build a sample MLW to
check the measurements and the resultant shrinkage.
9. Sew the Velcro ® in place for the ripcord pocket.
[Figure H]
10. Glue the chest strap in place. In this instance, do not
forget the housing loop.
11. Using the single needle, pre-sew the front and
rear main lift webs. Use of the sewing pattern in
Figure I accomplishes this and at the same time creates
the ripcord pocket. Sew the chest strap 3-point W-W
with the harness machine. [Figure J]
12. Reassemble the upper diagonal back strap and the
3-ring hardware by threading the rear riser through
the large ring followed by the front riser.
13. Position the 3-ring at the mark on the main lift web
and glue in place. Install the Type-12 confluence wrap
below the 3-ring and mark the 4-point W-W pattern.
[Figure K]
14. Sew the confluence wrap with the harness machine.
[Figure L]
15. Re-create the leg junction. Glue the upper leg strap in
place first and then the horizontal back strap second.
[Figure M]
16. Mark the 4-point W-W and then sew with the harness
machine. Start the stitch pattern at the front side of the
MLW and complete with the overstitch the full length
of the pattern. [Figure N] This provides additional
reinforcing at the upper leg strap/MLW location.
17. Measure the length of the lower leg strap allowing
3.50 inches for the rolled stop end. Trim to length and
then install the stop end with the harness machine.
18. Reattach the backpad to the upper MLW using the
308 zigzag machine.
19. Reinstall the leg pads using the 308 zigzag machine.
20. Reinstall the ripcord and 3-ring housings and hand
tack in place.
Inspection
• Check the finished dimensions against the original
dimensions in Figure A. If only one side has been
replaced, check the new MLW against the opposite
side for comparison. The generally accepted tolerances
for this type of construction are ± .25 inch. In
particular, reserve riser length and the overall MLW
length are the most important. If either of these is
mismatched to their opposites, then the flight of the
canopies may be affected.
• Start inspecting from the riser end working down.
Use the inspection chart in Figure O as a guide for the
inspection points. After the inspection, all appropriate
paperwork must be completed. This includes the
rigger’s logbook, the packing data card for the
parachute, and any shop or business forms or log.
Main Riser 3-Ring Locking Loop Replacement
• Applicable products: All 3-ring riser assemblies
• Description: Replacement of the 3-ring riser locking
loop
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread; 5-cord nylon thread—color to
match, Type-IIa nylon cord or equivalent
• Machines: 308 zigzag—medium duty 10 SPI and heavy-
duty harness machine—Singer 7–33 or equivalent
Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, glue gun, and hot knife
Harness Inspection
Check Inspection Date Inspection Points
1. Color
2. Sizing: risers, MLW, chest, leg strap, HZ
3. 3-ring size
4. Leg hardware —orientation, type
5. Reserve riser ends—4 pt. W-W, guide rings, toggle stow loops
6. Chest strap—3 pt. W-W each side
7. Articulated harness ring junction —buffers
8. Upper leg strap—4 pt. W-W, buffers, hardware orientation
9. Lower leg strap—stitch pattern, buffers, stop end
10. TSO label and orientation
11. Harness stitching—SPI, backstitch, stop ends, tension
12. Ripcord pocket—present, secure fit
Procedure
Disassembly
• Mark the locking loop at the bottom edge of the
confluence wrap. [Figure A]
• Place a mark at the bottom of the confluence wrap and
carefully remove the confluence wrap from the riser.
• Remove the old locking loop.
Reassembly
1. Cut a new loop the length of the old one plus 2 inches.
2. Fold the new loop in half and lay alongside the old
loop. Transfer the marks from the old loop to the new
one. [Figure B]
3. Align the marks on the loop with the mark at the
bottom of the confluence wrap on the riser. [Figure C]
Glue the loop in place.
4. Sew the loop with the 308 zigzag machine. [Figure D]
Set the stitch width at approximately 1⁄8 inch and 10 SPI.
5. Trim the excess loop off at the top. [Figure E]
6. Reinstall the confluence wrap using the harness
machine. [Figure F]
Inspection
• Before installing the confluence wrap, make sure the
zigzag stitching is complete.
• The loop length should be the same as the old loop.
• The confluence wrap must be reinstalled.
Main Riser Steering Toggle Velcro® Replacement
• Applicable products: Most main risers with a Velcro®
toggle installation
• Description: Replacement of the Velcro ® toggle
keeper on main risers
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread, Velcro® of the appropriate width
and type
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, and 6-inch ruler
Procedure
The term “Velcro®” is used in a generic fashion for hook and
loop fastener. While the rigger should replace the Velcro ®
to match the original configuration. This installation has
proven superior for its holding ability and the secure line
stow configuration.
Disassembly
1. Mark the location of the old Velcro®. [Figure A]
2. Remove the old Velcro®.
Reassembly
1. Cut a new piece(s) of Velcro® to match the original.
2. Position the Velcro® to the original location.
3. Sew the hook Velcro® with a single-needle machine.
Sew an additional row of stitching down the center of
the Velcro®. [Figure B] This keeps the center from
lifting during use and tearing out the edge stitching.
4. Position the loop line stow Velcro ® to match the
hook and sew along the edge, overstitching the ends.
[Figure C]
Inspection
• Check that the location of Velcro® is the same as the
original.
• Check stitch patterns and center stitching.
Section 4, Accessory Components
Accessory components are comprised of the reserve pilot
chute, reserve deployment bag or device, main deployment
bag, main pilot chute and bridle, main and reserve toggles,
reserve static line (RSL) lanyard, 3-ring release handle, and
reserve ripcord.
The reserve components generally do not suffer much wear
due to their infrequent use. In addition, with their frequent
inspection during the repack cycle, any necessary repairs
become obvious and are taken care of before they become
major problems.
1. Metal ripcords usually are not repairable and must be
replaced when they are damaged.
2. Reserve pilot chutes experience torn mesh, minor
canopy damage, broken hand tackings, and damaged
grommets in the cap.
The reserve free bag may have the grommets in the closing
flap pull out of the material. The high-drag bridle is a critical
area and is usually not repairable. The RSL lanyard is another
critical item that is usually not repairable, except for the
replacement of a defective snap shackle.
Main components, on the other hand, are subject to extensive
wear and tear. Most jumpers do not take time to inspect their
main components on a regular basis and generally operate
on a “repair as broken” basis. By the time the rigger sees the
components, it is easier and more cost effective to replace
than to repair them. However, there are regular wear trends
that the rigger can make their customers aware of so they
can look for them and have them taken care of.
The following are repairs to accessory components, found in
Section 4, Accessory Components, of this chapter:
• Reserve pilot chute repair—mesh, tackings, and
bad grommet
• Reserve free bag repair—grommet pullout
• Main pilot chute repair—top canopy reinforcing
• Main pilot chute collapsible bridle replacement
• Main deployment bag repair—closing flap grommet
pullout
Reserve Pilot Chute Repair—Mesh, Tackings, and
Bad Grommet
• Applicable products: Most reserve pilot chutes
• Description: Replacement of cap grommet
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: Nylon supertack, stainless steel sheet
grommet—same as original
• Machines: None
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, hand
tacking needle, grommet set, and diagonal cutters
Procedure
The canopy fabric portion of a reserve pilot chute would
be repaired as necessary with similar patching techniques
as used on a canopy. The mesh portion, however, may be
subject to different techniques. Another area of common
damage is the thru grommet in the top of the pilot chute.
The following procedure describes the replacement of the
grommet in the top of the pilot chute. Figure A shows a
damaged grommet.
Disassembly
1. Remove the hand tackings used to secure the base of
the pilot chute to the spring. [Figure B]
2. Turn the pilot chute upside down and push the canopy
down until the grommet is exposed. [Figure C]
3. Using diagonal cutters, remove the damaged grommet
being careful not to damage the fabric of the cap.
[Figure D]
Reassembly
1. Using the handset, set a new grommet. Be careful not
to catch any fabric during the process. [Figure E]
2. Reposition the canopy over the spring. Grasp the skirt
at the bottom end of the spring. Make sure that the
radial tapes run directly from the bottom to the cap
in a straight line. [Figure F] If the tapes “barberpole”
around the spring, the pilot chute may not inflate
properly on launch.
3. Hand tack the bottom of the canopy to the bottom of
the spring. [Figure G]
Inspection
• Verify the grommet is secure.
• Tapes should be straight.
• Tackings should be secure.
Disassembly: Mesh Repair
1. Remove the tackings used to secure the base of the
pilot chute to the spring.
2. For small holes, turn the mesh inside out and zigzag
the edges together.
Reassembly
1. Reattach the bottom of the pilot chute to the spring
with hand tacking.
Inspection
• Tapes should be straight.
• Tackings should be secure.
Reserve Free Bag Repair—Grommet Pullout
• Applicable products: Most reserve free bags
• Description: General repair to the reserve free bag
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread, 1½ inch Type-3 tape, and
grommets to match the original type and size
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, hot knife, grommet set, and
hole punch
Procedure
Most reserve free bag designs are fairly robust. The most
common types of damage seen are the pulling out of the
grommets in the tongue of the bag and tearing out of fabric
from the binding tape due to overstressing during packing.
[Figure A] Damage to the bridle portion of the free bag is
generally not repairable nor allowed by most manufacturers.
Consequently, any damage in this area would necessitate the
replacement of the bag. The following procedure deals with
the repair of the tongue area and replacement of the grommets.
Disassembly
1. Remove the grommets from the tongue. [Figure B]
2. Remove the binding from the tongue area by unpicking
the stitching. [Figure C]
Reassembly
1. Cut two pieces of 1½ inch Type-3 tape and overlay
them on each side of the damaged area. Sew around
the edges of the tape and down the center to secure it.
[Figure D]
2. Trim the ends of the tape to match the shape of
the tongue.
3. Using the single needle machine, reapply the binding
tape around the edge of the tongue. [Figure E]
4. Punch new holes over the exact position as the original
ones. [Figure F]
5. Insert new grommets. [Figure G]
Inspection
• Reinforcing tape must be secure.
• Binding must be re-sewn.
• Grommets must be set and secure.
Main Pilot Chute Repair—Top Canopy
Reinforcing
• Applicable products: Most main hand deploy pilot
chutes
• Description: Repair of the apex area of a hand deploy
pilot chute
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread and ¾ inch Type-3 tape
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, and hot knife
Procedure
Most repairs of the main pilot chute consist of fabric or mesh
repairs and may be repaired similar to canopy procedures.
The most common damage seen on main pilot chutes is in
the area of the apex and the hand deploy handle. [Figure A]
This area is subject to fairly severe stress and strain. The
following procedure deals with the apex area repair. It should
be noted that if the repair is too complex, it is probably more
cost effective to replace rather than repair the pilot chute.
Disassembly
1. Working through the hole in the base, turn the pilot
chute inside out. Unpick the seam at the junction of the
canopy and mesh and between two of the radial tapes.
[Figure B] This allows good access to the apex area.
Reassembly
1. Take a piece of ¾ inch Type-3 tape and overlay the
reinforcing material at the apex, covering the damaged
area. [Figure C]
2. Re-sew the canopy and mesh panels as per the original.
Turn the pilot chute right side out.
Inspection
• Damaged area must be covered.
• Canopy seam must be re-stitched correctly.
Main Pilot Chute Collapsible Bridle Replacement
• Applicable products: Most kill-line pilot chute bridle
configurations
• Description: Replacement of the bridle of a kill-line
collapsible pilot chute
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread, replacement bridle
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
and 1 inch × 42 stitch bar tack 308 zigzag—medium
duty 7–11 SPI (optional)
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, green
felt tip marker, 6-inch ruler, hemostats, pony clamp,
and hot glue gun
Procedure
There are three basic main bridle configurations listed below:
• Standard non-collapsible bridle
• Bungee collapsible bridle
• Centerline or “kill-line” collapsible bridle
The standard bridle is a simple design and any damage usually
results in the replacement of the bridle. The exception to this
is if the tape attaching the curved pin is worn. The replacement
of the tape is a simple task. The most common bridle in use
today is the kill-line collapsible type. The replacement of the
bridle is described in the following procedure.
Disassembly
1. Remove the old bridle from the pilot chute. [Figure A]
Reassembly
1. Thread the loop ends of the bridle through the bottom
support tapes of the pilot chute. [Figure B]
2. Glue the ends in place with the glue gun. [Figure C]
3. Bar tack the bridle along the sides. Do not capture the
centerline. [Figure D]
4. Align the bridle tapes on the center of the pilot chute
attachment tapes and bar tack in place. [Figure E]
5. Check the trim of the pilot chute centerline. When the
centerline is taut, the apex should be even with or no
more than 1 inch below the skirt of the canopy.
6. Anchor the bag end of the pilot chute at the bag stop.
Grasp the Spectra ® centerline and pull to “cock”
the bridle.
7. Route the free end of the Spectra ® centerline up
through the center of the pilot chute and through the
loop of the pilot chute centerline at the apex. Grasp the
handle of the pilot chute and apply tension so that the
centerline of the pilot chute and the bridle are equal.
Pinch the Spectra® line so that the location will not
move. Secure with 2 half hitches. [Figure F]
8. Change the anchor point to the end of the bridle.
Stretch the bridle so that the pilot chute is collapsed.
Lay the pilot chute out with the mesh exposed and
secure the radial tapes with the pony clamp at the
mesh/fabric seam. [Figure G] Pull moderate tension
on the pony clamp and check the location of the apex
of the pilot chute at the opening of the bridle.
9. Again anchor the bridle at the bag stop and cock
the bridle. Check the position of the apex of the
pilot chute. It should be within 1 inch of the skirt.
[Figure H]
10. Finger-trap the running end of the Spectra® centerline
for a distance of 3 inches. [Figure I] Bar tack or zigzag
to secure. Trim the excess line.
11. Cock the bridle. Take the hemostats and grasp the
Spectra® centerline at the eye of the bridle. [Figure J]
12. Pull the centerline out to expose approximately 3
inches each side of the hemostats. Take the green felt
tip marker and place a mark at the hemostat location
and 1 inch either side. [Figure K] Color the line
between the marks and on both sides. [Figure L]
13. Pull the bridle tight to reposition the centerline and
check the green color of the eye. [Figure M]
Inspection
• Check the bar tack at the pilot chute loops and at
the base.
• Verify the Spectra ® centerline is knotted, finger-
trapped and sewn.
• Verify the colored eye location of the centerline is
marked green.
Main Deployment Bag Repair—Closing Flap
Grommet Pullout
• Applicable products: All main deployment bags
• Description: Repair of main deployment bag
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread, Type-4 tape or equivalent and
grommets to match original
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
and 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, grommet set, and hole punch
Procedure
The most common repair needed to a main deployment is the
repair of the closing flap in the area of the grommets. The
grommets work loose and pull out, damaging the material.
The tongue will need reinforcing and new grommets.
Disassembly
1. Remove grommets from the tongue of the bag.
2. Unpick the binding along the edge of the grommet
reinforcing tape. [Figure A]
Reassembly
1. Overlay a piece of 1.5 inch Type-4 tape on the top of
the bag tongue and sew down. [Figure B]
2. Punch new holes through the Type-4 from the back
side in the same location as the original location.
3. Overlay the back side of the tongue with a piece of 1.5
inch Type-3 tape and sew down. [Figure C] Punch
new holes through the tape.
4. Sew down the binding tape and rebind as needed.
[Figure D]
5. Set new grommets in the original locations. [Figure E]
Inspection
• Verify stitching is secure.
• Verify new grommets are secure.
Section 5, Alterations
In the “old days” when military surplus equipment was
common, there were a number of alterations available to
make the surplus equipment suitable for sport use. Since then,
however, the sport has progressed and purpose-built sport
equipment is now the rule, so most equipment does not need
any specialized alterations for use. Most alterations now deal
primarily with harness size adjustments for individuals, or they
are designed to enhance the performance of the parachute.
In the past, alterations were often done by well-intentioned
individuals who knew how to do them but in most cases
did not have the authority to perform them. The common
attitude was, “I’m a master rigger; I can do anything.” As
long as the work was done reasonably well and no one got
hurt, this was an accepted practice. While there may be a few
individuals who still adhere to that philosophy, as a whole,
the rigging profession is much more aware of limitations
in regard to alterations. Under 14 CFR part 65, section
65.129(d), “No certificated parachute rigger may – (d) Alter
a parachute in a manner that is not specifically authorized
by the Administrator or the manufacturer.” In today’s world,
manufacturers are much more concerned with the alterations
being performed on their products. With the advent of the
Internet and other means of high-speed communications,
riggers have much more access to the manufacturer and are
more likely to communicate with them as to what can be
done. Also, due to liability issues, many riggers are reluctant
to undertake alterations without the manufacturer’s approval.
What constitutes the manufacturer’s approval for an
alteration? To be safe, the rigger should always have
something in writing that specifically addresses the alteration
the rigger wishes to perform. There should be a two way line
of communication for this. One, the rigger should specifically
request from the manufacturer the authority to perform the
alteration. This should include serial number, make, model
of the product involved, and a description of the alteration.
Two, in return, the rigger should receive written authorization
to perform the alteration. The manufacturer specifies the
form of this authorization, but it should have the date, the
rigger’s name and certificate number, and a reference to the
rigger’s original request. This fulfills the requirements of the
regulations and protects both parties involved.
In certain cases, a rigger might want to perform an alteration
on a product for which the manufacturer is no longer in
business. This is commonly known as an orphaned product.
If this occurs, the rigger should obtain approval from
the FAA. Refer to AC 105-2, Sport Parachute Jumping.
Alterations to approved parachutes must be performed only
by a certificated and appropriately rated Master Parachute
Rigger , a parachute manufacturer, or any other manufacturer
that the FAA considers competent. To receive approval from
the FAA, a person qualified to alter a parachute would first
contact the FAA Flight Standards District Office (FSDO) to
discuss the proposed alteration with an FAA inspector. The
inspector requires a description of the proposed alteration
along with a sample, technical data and proposed test data
to ensure that the altered parachute meets all applicable
requirements. After discussing the proposed alteration, the
two parties agree on a suitable plan of action. The individual
then drafts an application, in letter form, addressed to the
local FSDO. Along with the letter, the following information
needs to be attached:
1. A clear description of the alteration
2. Technical information that includes drawings and
photographs, materials used, stitch patterns, and
location of altered components
3. A means of identifying the altered parachute, such
as model and serial number, and identification of the
person having performed the alteration
After the inspector reviews the application, if he or she is
satisfied, he or she indicates approval by date stamping,
signing, and placing the FSDO identification stamp on the
letter of application. Upon receiving this approval, the master
rigger can then perform the alteration.
The following are alterations found in Section 5, Alterations,
of this chapter:
• *Articulated harness main lift web resizing
• Leg pad resizing
• *Automatic Activation Device (AAD) installation
NOTE: A * denotes approval needed by the Administrator
or the manufacturer.
Articulated Harness Main Lift Web (MLW)
Resizing
• Applicable products: Most articulated harness
configurations
• Description: Resizing of an articulated harness
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread, 5-cord nylon thread, Type-7
webbing, or as original and Type-4 1 inch tape
• Machines: 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI,
heavy-duty harness machine, Singer 7–33 or
equivalent 4-6 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 18-inch ruler, and hot glue gun
Procedure
Resizing of a harness is usually considered an alteration.
However, because of the simplicity of the procedure, most
manufacturers do not object to a qualified master rigger
performing the procedure. It would be wise, however, for
the rigger to contact the manufacturer for permission before
undertaking the procedure. The following procedure is shown
on a VoodooTM system.
Disassembly
1. Measure the MLW to check if the harness is even.
2. Remove the ripcord pocket/MLW cover. [Figure A]
3. Measure the lower MLW. [Figure B]
4. Remove the lower MLW. [Figure C]
Reassembly
1. Measure the webbing for the lower main lift web.
[Figure D]
2. Zigzag the bowtie folds as marked including the Type-
4 buffers. [Figure E]
3. Glue the MLW in place. Make sure that the open end
of the webbing is on the rear and oriented up towards
the chest strap.
4. Mark the stitch pattern on the MLW and sew with the
harness machine. Use a 3 inch W-W pattern at the top
as shown in Figure F. Include a box pattern on the
lower section of the MLW.
5. Reattach the ripcord pocket/MLW cover. [Figure G]
Inspection
• Check that the new harness dimensions are correct
and symmetrical.
• Verify the harness stitching is correct for SPI and
tension.
• The ripcord pocket/MLW cover must be reattached.
Leg Pad Resizing
• Applicable products: Most harness leg pad
configurations
• Description: Shortening the length of the leg pad
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11
SPI, 301 double needle with tape folder 7–11 SPI,
and 1 inch × 42 stitch bar tack
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 6-inch ruler, and hot knife
MLW
12.00
13.00
14.00
15.00
16.00
17.00
18.00
MARK A-B-C
4.75-11.00-15.75
5.00-11.50-16.50
5.75-13.25-19.00
7.12-15.88-23.00
8.00-17.75-25.75
9.00-19.5-28.50
10.00-21.50-31.50
FINISH
5.25
5.50
6.38
7.62
8.62
9.25
10.25
Size
XXS
XS
SM
MED
LG
J. DOE
J. DOE
J. DOE
Contract Number
MULTI-FLEX LOWER
MAIN LIFT WEB
7.5.1d
12-1-03
12-1-03
12-1-03
SIZE NUMBER
SCALE SHEET
PREP
CHIOR
APVD
APVD
Chest ring
Finish
Chest ring
1.50
Description
Buffer
Lower main lift web
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
REQD
Material
TY-41
TY-7
Size
3.00
A/R
No.
Procedure
Disassembly
1. Measure the amount that the pad is to be shortened
and mark on the sleeve of the pad. [Figure A]
2. Remove all bar tacks or zigzag stitching from the
binding.
3. Using the hot knife, remove the binding from the pad.
[Figure B]
4. Unpick the sleeve from the body of the pad. Fold the
pad under and using the hot knife, shorten the sleeve
by the required amount.
5. Measure the pad and mark. Trim with the hot knife.
[Figure C]
Reassembly
1. Using the double needle machine and binder, bind the
end of the sleeve. [Figure D]
2. Sew the sleeve to the pad and pre-sew the foam with
the single needle.
3. Trim the ends of the tape.
4. Rebind the pad starting at the upper corner.
[Figure E] Make sure the inside curve of the pad is
fully captured by the binding.
5. Bar tack at the original locations. [Figure F]
Inspection
• Verify the length is correct.
• Check that the bar tacks are at the original location.
Automatic Activation Device (AAD) Installation
• Applicable products: Most 1-pin sport piggyback
systems
• Description: Installation of a CYPRES ® AAD to a
1-pin sport piggyback harness and container system
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Master Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread—color to match, CYPRES ®
installation kit, and Spandex® fabric (optional)
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11 SPI
and 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 12-inch ruler, hot knife, and wallpaper roller
Procedure
The following procedure is representative of a typical
installation of the CYPRES ® AAD into a modern 1-pin
reserve container system. While providing guidance for this
operation, it is imperative that the rigger possesses the proper
instructions from both the harness-container manufacturer
and the AAD manufacturer.
Disassembly
Open the right side corner of the reserve container.
[Figure A] While this might not be needed on some size
containers, it generally makes the installation of the pocket
easier and it is not that hard to close the corner back up.
Reassembly
1. Mark the center of the container wall at the bottom.
[Figure B]
2. Mark the center of the Spandex ® portion of the
CYPRES® pocket. [Figure C] Do not mark the center
of the entire pocket. The Spandex® must be centered
on the wall to allow for the correct positioning of the
CYPRES® processing unit.
3. Align the marks and the pocket as close to the bottom
of the wall as possible. [Figure D]
4. Sew around the pocket with the single needle
machine. Backstitch .5 inch at each of the corners
for reinforcing.
5. Next, install or create a cable channel for the control
cable. Some systems, such as the one shown in
Figure F , can be modified to provide the channel.
Others need to use the adhesive backed channel
provided with the CYPRES® kit.
Built-In Channel Modification Configuration
1. Mark the bottom and top of the pack tray cover as
shown. [Figure E] Place a hand tack at the A position.
Unpick the stitching between the corner bar tack and
the hand tack at the A position. Also, unpick the
stitching between the B bar tacks.
2. There is now a built-in channel to slide the control
cable thru and stow the excess cable as well.
[Figure F]
Adhesive Channel Installation
1. Measure the distance along the long axis of the reserve
container from the bottom of the pocket location to
the top of the container near the planned location for
the control unit. [Figure G]
2. Cut a piece of the adhesive backed channel to the same
length. Remove the adhesive covering and position the
channel in place. Roll the channel with the wallpaper
roller to secure the adhesive.
3. Locate the position for the control pocket. Unpick the
stitching that holds the main container to the backpad.
[Figure H]
4. Insert the pocket with the mouth towards the channel
opening and restitch the container to the backpad.
[Figure I] Make sure the control head fits into
the pocket.
Cutter Channel and Elastic Installation
The location of the cutter is specified by the container
manufacturer’s instructions and should be strictly adhered
to. The following location is specified for the Talon system.
1. Lay the CYPRES® unit on the pocket and route the
cutter/cable assembly out the top of the pocket and
in as direct a line to the side flap as possible. It is
necessary to cut a hole in the bottom launching flap
to access the side flap.
2. Where the cable passes through the bottom launching
flap as close to the wall as possible, place a line
approximately .5 inch long. [Figure J] Take the hot
knife and cut a single slit the length of the mark. DO
NOT CUT ANY OTHER MATERIAL.
3. Route the cable through the slit and then along the
side flap as shown. [Figure K]
4. Place marks along the binding showing the start and
finish locations for the cable channel. Again, the rigger
can use the adhesive backed channel or make a channel
out of the Spandex® material as shown. [Figure L]
5. Route the cutter thru the channel and out the end
nearest the side flap grommet.
6. Slide the cutter elastic over the cutter and position the
cutter over the grommet with the hole to the outside of
the grommet and the elastic facing inwards on the flap.
Mark the corners of the cutter as shown. [Figure M]
7. Remove the CYPRES® from the container completely.
Position the elastic sleeve to the marks and sew in
place with the zigzag machine. [Figure N]
8. Re-close the corner of the reserve container as per
the original.
Inspection
• Verify the CYPRES ® pocket is sewn with the
Spandex® pocket centered on the wall.
• Control cable channel must be installed.
• Control unit pocket must be installed.
• Cutter cable channel must be installed.
• Cutter elastic must be installed.
• Verify the reserve container corner is closed,
as necessary.
• Check the fit of CYPRES® in the entire installation.
• Log installation data on the packing data card.
Remember, this is an alteration.
Section 6, Manufacturing
There might come times when it is more practical for the
rigger to manufacture replacement parts in order to return a
system to operation. The items listed in this section are those
that are either main component parts or the reserve closing
loop, which is simple to make and usually within the purview
of the senior rigger to do so. It is important for the rigger to
recognize just what parts are legal to make. One item some
riggers make, but one in which they are not usually approved
to do so, is the Safety Stow™ for the reserve free bag. As
part of the TSO-C23d component, it is manufactured from
approved materials and under an approved Quality Control
system. As simple as this item is, if it is not manufactured
according to the original configuration. There is a very good
chance for a failure of the reserve deployment system. The
best rule of thumb to follow is this: If the component is part
of the approved assembly, then it is probably not something
that may be manufactured in the field. The common exception
to this rule is the reserve closing loop.
The rigger who is undertaking the manufacture of these
components needs to have, at the minimum, the following
sewing machines: medium duty, single-needle, double needle
machine with a binding attachment and a zigzag machine. In
addition, the rigger needs grommet setting tools and a basic
selection of webbings, materials, and fabrics.
The following are outlines of construction procedures for
the manufacture of the listed items found in Section 6,
Manufacturing:
• Main and reserve closing loop manufacture
• Main deployment bag
• Bottom of Container (BOC) pocket
Main and Reserve Closing Loop Manufacture
• Applicable products: All harness and containers that
utilize a fabric closing loop configuration
• Description: Fabrication of fabric closing loops
• Authorized repairmen: FAA Senior or Master
Parachute Rigger
• Materials: E thread, loop material—725# Spectra®
• Machines: 301 straight stitch—medium duty 7–11
SPI, 308 zigzag—medium duty 7–11 SPI, and 1 inch
× 42 stitch bar tack (optional)
• Equipment: Scissors, seam ripper or scalpel, marking
pencil, 18-inch ruler, hot knife, finger-trapping needle
or fid, and finger-trapping wire
Procedure
The terms “locking loops” and “closing loops” are
synonymous and used interchangeably. Fabric locking
loops have become the preferred method of closing most
modern parachute containers. Dating from the mid 1970s,
the most common material was Type-III suspension line. It
was soon recognized that other materials, such as Dacron ®
were superior for this use. Today, Spectra® is widely used for
reserve locking loops while Dacron® has remained preferred
for main loops due to its durability. The following technique
demonstrates the fabrication of a 1-pin and a 2-pin loop.
Preparation: 1-Pin Loop
1. Measure the length of the original loop. If the stop
knot is too tight to untie, allow extra length (you can
always cut it down, but you cannot glue it back on).
2. Cut an appropriate length of material and hot knife
one end on an angle.
Fabrication
1. Fold the line in half and mark the center. [Figure A]
2. Place a mark at 1 inch from the center on the hot
knifed end.
3. Take the finger-trapping fid and screw it onto the hot
knifed end. [Figure B]
4. Insert the pointed end of the fid into the line at the
farthest mark by separating the weave of the material
so that the fid then passes through the length of the
braided line and out the scissor cut end. [Figure C]
5. Draw the line through until the two marks are aligned.
This results in a loop eye of approximately .5 inch.
[Figure D]
6. Pinch the eye of the loop with one hand and smooth
the material from the eye to the end. Hot knife the
running end.
7. For short loops used with a main container, simply tie
an overhand knot in the loop for the required length.
A metal washer is used to keep the loop from pulling
through the grommet. [Figure E]
8. If the loop is to be used with a reserve container, it
may be required to sew the finger-trapped part of the
loop for security. If this is the case, simply sew the
length of the finger-trapped portion of the loop with
a single-needle machine before hot knifing the end.
Start at the running end and sew towards the eye of the
loop. Stop sewing approximately .12 inch from the eye
and then backstitch a minimum of 1 inch. [Figure F]
Trim the end with the hot knife.